Tour Report

Hungary - Hortobagy+Zemplen+Bukk Hills
15th to 22nd May 2004

Day 1: Saturday 15th May

Spring sunshine welcomed our happy band of 10 Adventurers. There to greet us at Budapest Airport was our local guide, Balazs Szigeti, with our personal driver, Attila! A window seat each in the brand-new 19 seater air-conditioned Mercedes minibus, gave a real feel of luxury. Luggage was safely stowed in the trailer, (with the exception of our leader’s suitcase, which was still languishing in the “fast-track” at Heathrow!) and we were off!
Destination Hortobagy, the Puszta, the Great Hungarian Plain, the westernmost stretch of the Eurasian Steppe, Hungary’s number one birding Paradise so reminiscent of the Serengeti with huge dramatic skyscapes and full of birding treasures.

Our ecotours-guide had chosen a picturesque route, through quiet rural roads and tidy, colourful villages. We stopped for a coffee and comfort stop at Tapioszecso, by a small lake surrounded by mixed woodland and reedbeds. The group immediately spotted a Black Stork standing sentinel on its tree nest. A Purple Heron rose majestically out of the reeds very close by, as a Little Bittern flew off to slide down the reed stems. Great Reed Warblers gurked loudly, Savi’s Warbler reeled away and the Sedge Warblers scratchy song was continuously heard. Great White Egret, Squacco Heron and Reed Bunting flew over us as a Jay made for the woods. A Hobby dashed through the Swifts, Swallows and House Martins as we heard our first Cuckoo. This together with an impromptu stop to enjoy Rollers and Bee-eaters brought our first afternoon’s total to 51 species seen and heard. A good start!

By 8.30pm we were eating a hearty 3 course meal in the Patkos Csarda (Horse-Shoe Inn), which still supports a riding-stables and a resident Little Owl. This thatched coaching-inn, on the old salt road, is conveniently situated at the western edge of the Hortobagy National Park.

Day 2: Sunday 16th May

The leader was up at 6am to collect her suitcase and by 6.45am the early-birds were enjoying a pre-breakfast stroll, meeting our first Hoopoe and hearing the familiar call ‘wet-my-lips’ from a skulking Quail in farmland nearby. By 8am a choice of cooked or continental breakfast was served.
The morning was spent alongside the River Tisza, at Arokto. Here we crossed as foot passengers on a quaint, historic chain ferry with a side paddle-wheel. Doomed for EU closure, no doubt, by Health & Safety regulations! Golden Orioles serenaded us as we stalked our first River Warbler.
The mosquitoes found us tasty. Serin, Yellow Wagtail, Black Redstart, Spotted Flycatcher and Honey Buzzard were added to our list. By now the group was sharing its many talents; those with a good ear and musical leanings soon picked up the new calls and were able to join Balazs in Oriole imitations!

Picnic Lunch was taken at Darassa Puszta, searching for the Long-legged Buzzard, which our sharp-eyed guide identified for us. Meanwhile the good-natured humour of the group was beginning to surface. A Quail hunt was on! A sweep of the grassy verge did not reveal the game, so Balazs imitated it crossing the road and slipped spectacularly into the ditch. At this the Quail shot out protesting loudly to whirr into the opposite field; good views were had by all, particularly our prostrate guide!
Cranes, Montagu’s Harrier and Spoonbill were all spotted en route to Nagyivan. At a quick fishpond stop we scooped Pygmy Cormorant, Yellow-legged Gull, Pochard and Ferruginous Duck, nick-named Fudge Duck or Chocolate Duck because of its rich brown colouring.

At 4pm we had an appointment with the legendary Ranger, Dr. Gabor Kovacs, to seek out the Great Bustard flock. The Lucerne crop had grown tall, so we saw mostly inquisitive necks and heads, but read on, dear reader, big treats were to follow on another day! From 6pm the rare Aquatic Warbler can be heard singing out on the Puszta; our guide predicted an 800 metre walk. This became one of the trip’s in-jokes, “How far is a Hungarian 800 metres?” Balazs now wisely refers to ‘medium length’ walks, so he is not infringing trade descriptions! The group were finally rewarded with excellent views of several Aquatic Warblers, singing lustily from the top of their favoured foxtail grass. Those of us who loitered for a bush-stop were treated to the amazing song of the Bluethroat, this particular songster combined the “teacher, teacher, teacher” of a great-tit with phrases of Song-thrush and Nightingale, totally heart-stopping. Another full day’s birding brought our running total to 91.
The evening meal was well earned by all, but the Gypsy Band was not in the same league as the Bluethroat!

Day 3: Monday 17th May

Sunny but windy.
Today was the Hortobagy Halasto (Fishponds) day. As we were now aware of the length of a Hungarian 800 metres, rather than exhaust the group, we adapted a long walk to a medium length easy walk. Our first pond provided us with Penduline Tit and Bearded Reedling calling, but it was rather too windy for the birds to show, even looking down from the observation tower. A close view of a water snake and ‘Swamp Turtle’ (as our guide called it), provided extra excitement.

Drained Fishpond 5 proved very fruitful. Our guide picked out a Broad-billed Sandpiper while giving us a diagnostic comparison between Little and Temminck’s Stint.
Avocet, Grey Plover, Black-tailed Godwit, Spotted Redshank, Little Gull, Dunlin, Ringed and Little-ringed Plover were quickly notched up. A Lesser Whitethroat gave us a run for our money in the lakeside trees along the pathway. Whiskered, Black and Common Tern were observed closely from the large thatched hide where we sat and ate our packed lunch. Little Grebe, Great Crested Grebe, Garganey, Gadwall, Tufted Duck, Wigeon and a surprise Golden Eye were also seen .The changing colours of the Hortobagy are at their best here, it’s like a secret world far from the sounds of man-made machines.

Or so we thought, until our path was crossed by a narrow-gauge train which is used by the fish-farmers. Incidentally, this little train (kisvonat) is also used to transport refreshments to participants in the annual International Hortobagy Bird race!
Three o’clock found us back at the minibus, by now our driver, Attila, was showing a real interest in birds and could identify the plentiful Marsh Harriers. We stopped briefly to watch a dozen Glossy Ibis circle round and round over the Heron colony and had splendid close up views of Squacco Herons and ribbons of Spoonbills against the clear blue sky.

Next was a ‘Tourist Stop’ to view the famous 9 arched Hortobagy bridge. Here some sat in the riverside amphitheatre while others visited the National Park Pastoral Museum to buy maps, postcards and Recipe books! There is also a local tented market where Hungarian folk art and handicrafts can be bought.

On the return to our hostelry we stopped to visit a Sand Martin and Bee-eater colony and view the aerobatics of the Red-footed Falcons which nest in old rook nests in a spinney close by. A small hide allowed us clear views of the falcons, whose striking colours were marvelled at by all. Frogs serenaded us while we ‘scoped Ruffs, some in full breeding plumage. The Hungarian name translates as Field Chickens.

By now it was 5.30pm and those who wished were dropped back at the Horseshoe Inn, while others voted for an hour’s optional lakeside trip. It was during this day that we witnessed a wind-surfing Marsh Harrier! What a strange sight it was as the Harrier was towed hither and thither by its prey. Photographic evidence later studied by the group on Balazs’ laptop, revealed that the Harrier was trying to drown a large and spirited gosling. We did not reach a conclusion as to what was on the Harrier’s menu, but Goulash was on ours, so we hurried to join the rest of the Avian Adventurers for a hearty repast. By now we were more than ready to sample the local quality red wine, ‘Bull’s Blood!’ the Egri Bikaver. 122 species heard and seen.

Day 4: Tuesday 18th May

Some of us had good views of a Little Owl before our ham and eggs! The walk along the verandah to breakfast was a real Avian Adventure as a dozen Swallow families had nests at head height and were busy feeding young. The day was hot and sunny and the typical Hortobagy wind had dropped to a gentle breeze. Today our quarry was Collared Pratincole and close-up views of Great Bustard.

Heading south from Tiszafured through peaceful agricultural scenery, we stopped alongside a reconstructed Tanya (puszta farmstead) complete with its ‘Heron’ well. This is a typical landmark of the Puszta, a tall wooden construction very similar to an African ‘shadoof’, used to raise water. It is always as well (ha!ha!) to check these, as birds of prey find them useful look-out posts. The cry went up ‘Collared Pratincole’ and sure enough we had excellent views of several flying & two sitting in the ploughed field where sunflower seedlings were sprouting. We pondered whether Pratincoles might soon evolve longer necks as by the time the chicks are fledged the sunflowers are several feet tall! Pratincoles also favour nesting in dried mud hoof prints. As we did not wish to disturb the nesting birds, we travelled on to Kecskeri Puszta and had picnic lunch amidst the dog-roses, serenaded by Bluethroats, Reed and Sedge Warblers, with a distant booming Bittern. As bush-calls became necessary a Penduline Tit was discovered in the ladies and Bearded Tits in the Gents! Bluethroat was scoped by all and another excellent view of a Little Bittern in flight.

Next stop was Devavanya Bustard Rehabilitation Centre where we witnessed males in full courtship display at one metre distance, a great photo opportunity! The rare-breeds programme gave us views of endearing skipping piglets, offspring of the Hairy Mangalica Pigs, not renowned for their beauty! The famous Hungarian Grey Cattle with their huge horns were also seen as were several species of working sheepdogs and Racka sheep.

Between 5 and 6 pm we were back at Lake Tisza, searching for Barred and River Warbler, by 7.30 we were enjoying Turkey in cream sauce. After dinner, Balazs treated us to a slideshow on his laptop of the birds seen so far and highlights of the promotional Ghana Bird Safari. The Belgian Birders at the next table showed envy as we called out our days checklist, 127 to date.

Day 5: Wednesday 19th May

7.30 breakfast and on the road by 8.45. Today we were heading for Tokaj,the famous wine region, via the old Debrecen Woods, but first we were on the trail of the elusive Moustached Warbler.
Derezsi Halasto gave up its secrets to us and glimpses of the Moustached and Savi’s Warblers were had. Good views of Bearded Reedling, Penduline Tit and at least 6 Bluethroats singing boldly from the reed-heads, made this a special visit. A Moorhen earned one of our team an extra ‘Balaton bar’, but still no Wren, Robin or Dunnock sighted! We watched our 7th Bluethroat as we drank our morning Cappuccino. 6 Glossy Ibis circled around indecisively over our heads, regular flypasts of Spoonbill, Night Heron and Purple Heron reminded us that we were near the Heron Colony. A drained fishpond provided Curlew and Black-tailed Godwit for the list. Ferruginous Ducks flew off protesting loudly. The frogs switched on and off. Another Little Bittern hurried for cover, showing its wonderful white wing patches.

An hour later we were lunching at a picnic site in Debrecen old forest which we shared with a Hoopoe, Black and Syrian Woodpecker. After a short walk in the woods, we strolled through Debrecen Graveyard, where the group starting inventing such birds as the Gravestone Chat and the Headstone Curlew! Very close views were had of 3 different Nightingales in full song. An obliging Middle Spotted Woodpecker was photographed by our Guide for after dinner checking of field-markings. Bringing our group total to 146 species.
At 6pm we checked into the Novak Panzio in Tokaj, where we were treated to a welcoming glass of the local white wine. (Mine host has his own flavoursome house wine.) By 9pm we were in a nearby quarry waiting for the Eagle Owl, we were not disappointed! Corncrakes were calling in the water meadows.

Day 6: Thursday 20th May

This was to be our Eagle day!
Another sunny morning and a walk through the picture postcard village of Tokaj to the river. From the church we searched for Syrian Woodpeckers and watched the activities at the local Bee-eater colony; a lucky few saw the azure flash of our first Kingfisher. A River Warbler was calling alongside the Bodrog river. By 10am we had bagged Short-Toed Eagle quickly followed by a Lesser Spotted Eagle which came low enough overhead for Balazs to give us a field-mark lesson. Another Short-Toed was spotted by our eagle-eyed birdguide as we drove through the Zemplen National Park to the Huta villages (Huta means charcoal-burners), where our quarry was White-backed Woodpecker.The gentle stroll uphill through old beechwoods where a little stream ran, yielded Grey Wagtail, Wood Warbler and Collared Flycatcher. A Grass Snake, Orange Tip and Speckled Wood Butterflies were noted. A heavily twitched Wren was bird number 145!
Lunchstop was taken in a woodland clearing with picnic tables. In the nearby village of Ohuta a wooden Secler gate was admired. We stopped at a beautiful mountain meadow carpeted with flowers, close to a little peak of Pal-hegy, on the edge of Zemplen hills. Many Hawfinch were here, earning some a life-tick. The group worked hard for Barred Warbler which rewarded us with good showings.

The afternoon was spent raptor watching overlooking a pretty valley with castle ruins. Set in beautiful scenery at the foot of the castle, the village name Boldogkovaralja translated as ‘village below the happy stone castle’. Imperial Eagles gave distant views, a pair of Ravens put on a flypast and Red-backed Shrike posed for photos. In the main street of Abaujszanto, a sharp-eyed raptorholic called STOP Shena! For a full 10 minutes we all enjoyed the most stunning views of a full adult Imperial Eagle stalling against the wind, very close above our heads and in perfect light. We all went to bed happy that we had reached 150 species.

Day7: Friday 21st May

Today we were off to explore the magical Beech woods of the Bukk Hills. Stopping enroute for extra raptor sightings, we reached the Hor Valley where a little quarry yielded Rock Bunting, despite a school outing and a party of Dutch Butterfly enthusiasts.
A pretty drive through wooded valleys brought us to our longish hike of I’m not sure quite how many 800 metres worth! Our downward woodland path yielded White-backed Woodpecker at a nest hole and flitting Red- breasted Flycatchers, it was difficult to know which to concentrate on first. We were amazed at the great speed of our Guide, who heard, found and ‘scoped these birds with such skill that we each saw them within a space of five minutes. The woods ended at a lush water meadow where Corncrake, Barred Warbler and River Warbler were calling. We had fantastic views of the River Warbler, head skywards singing fit to burst. A Large Tortoiseshell Butterfly posed for a photo. By now the clouds were looking thunderous and few turned back to the coach to enjoy a well-earned beer.
The ‘Owlers’ soldiered on to seek the elusive Ural Owl in vain. However a brightly coloured Fire Salamander crossed slowly in front of us on the return ascent. We were delighted to enjoy further good views of Red-breasted Flycatcher and White-backed Woodpecker. A tiring but rewarding final day’s hike, bringing the trip total to 161 species.
Some adventurers had clocked up over 40 lifers in a week, Imperial Eagle, Squacco Heron, Bluethroat, Hawfinch, Bearded and Penduline Tits being voted individual favourites.
It was another perfect day’s birding, ending with a delicious meal shared in most convivial company. Not just one, but two of the group gave votes of thanks which made the staff feel very happy indeed. Our driver declared it was the friendliest group he’d ever known and I totally agree!

Day 8: Saturday 22nd May

Finally we travelled westwards to Budapest continuing the game of raptor counting. By now even our quiet, courteous driver was eagerly pointing out raptors saying “Oh no, it’s ONLY another Marsh Harrier!” We lost count at over 40.

Shena Maskell
Ecotours Courier